This blog has chronicled our restaurant thinking and planning since 2006, and you can see the 2006 redux, as well as the 2007 discussion and a review of some of the 2007 restaurants from the inimitable Howard Schaefer. It’s chronicled restaurants that closed before we got to them (Anise, Bazaar Anise, Chevre) and some that closed after one visit (Cube, Brunoise) when we would have liked a second opportunity to dine there.

Truth be told, I’m more into this thing about making a list 120 days out from a trip than Chuck is, but from our previous visits, here are the prime candidates for a repeat visit.

2007: Pintxo

In 2007, there were two significant additions to our dining list: Toqué and Pintxo. Toqué was a celebratory event, an evening with all four of our friends for a dinner that would be memorable. Toqué doesn’t disappoint, but I doubt we’ll go back this year because we’ll be alone and less in need of the over-the-top dinner event. Pintxo, on the other hand, is a top candidate for 2008. It was a supremely pleasurable experience, and despite ordering everything on the menu (except the mixed salad), I think there’s more to enjoy there.

2006: Au Pied de Cochon

A significant percentage of web text about Montreal restaurants is devoted to this establishment, and this blog has contributed a fair amount, too, so I’ll spare you an additional review here. But our dinner there in 2006 led to a group celebration in 2007; and following those smashing successes, we’ll be back again this year. We’re spending a record 8 nights in Montreal this holiday, and we’ve talked about going twice, once before Christmas and again after. The caloric weight of two visits in such a short period of time may be more than my body can bear, but I’m willing to put it to the test.

2005: Gandhi

I written alot about Gandhi here; we think they serve some really good Indian food, and we like to visit often when we’re in Montreal. It’s also just steps away from the auberge where we stay, which makes it a convenient stop when we’re hungry and tired after a long day of leisure.

2004: Bato Thai, Bonaparte, Otto

Unless I’ve miscalculated, we’ve not been to Bato Thai since 2005, so I can’t vouch for its current state, but we had three great meals there, we like the Thai food there a lot, and I’ve heard little since then to convince me otherwise. It might be worth another visit. Bonaparte is one of the our most visited restaurants in Montreal, in part because it’s close to the auberge, and it’s a nice “French dining experience.” I enjoyed it most for Christmas Eve, and we kept that tradition until 2007. It could return this year, and so could Otto, which has been the Christmas night restaurant since 2004. It’s just good food, the menu changes regularly, service is good, the wine list is fine. Christmas night choices for dining are limited, naturally, and although we’ve talked about Niu Kee for a couple years, so far we’ve booked at Otto every Christmas.

So to summarize:

Candidates for a repeat visit:

• Pintxo
• APDC
• Gandhi
• Bato Thai
• Bonaparte
• Otto

New Contenders (new to our list, I mean):

• Laloux has actually been on our list for some time, and Chuck is concerned that we make 2008 the year we get there. A search of “Laloux” will bring up enough reviews to confirm that this is a restaurant that deserves to be on the list. It’s been called the best in Montreal by many, and the best in Canada by some. We hope to draw our own conclusion.
• Le Local has generated a fair amount of buzz, not all of it positive, since it opened. I expect Chuck and I will give it some consideration.
• Holder has been around longer, and also receives generally positive reviews. We’ve kept this restaurant as an option for a couple years now… perhaps this year.
• Joe Beef
• Niu Kee: 1163 rue Clark
• Restaurant YoYo

The New Contender list will grow, I’m sure, and I’ll keep you up-to-date.

What about lunch? That’s next.

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Opening Night: Toque!

As an eating team, we should have been dubbed The High Flying Locusts, for truly it was a swath we cut through Montreal haute cuisine. At Toque’, the delight in the presentation of each course paired with its wine was palpable around the table. I could be projecting a bit here. Robert and Michael eat everywhere fabulous, more fabulous and most fabulous, so this may not have knocked their socks off, but they looked well pleased. An exciting presentation style with handsome servers attending the table, announcing the food in English, and the exotic Pascal Paradis announcing (possibly in English) well-chosen wines from all over the world, made this meal for me the celebratory event that Todd had predicted. Todd also took momentary leave of his senses and hosted the meal entirely, a Herculean demonstration of courage and generosity. Funding the meals of The High Flying Locusts in major cuisine ports of call is not for the faint hearted.

I must say I am so easily amused. I just loved all the different plates that came out with each of the seven courses, blobby shapes, round, oval, square, different colors; it kept things a little off the expectable. This discovery, and the mid-century color palette in the dining room, caused me to think I had found the key to the name of the restaurant, which Donovan translated as ‘crazy.” I couldn’t identify anything else crazy about this place. Foodwise, I was well pleased with tastes, textures, amounts, presentation and progression, but especially memorable for me was the at times uncannily smooth continuum between the special tastes in the food and in the paired wines. I recall that Donovan later said to me that we had been at table four hours. I was surprised to hear this as the time went by so pleasurably fast. This ranks high as a truly memorable and festive meal with a relaxed, but precise signature. Chuck worked his elfin magic and scored us a tour of the kitchen. I normally would excuse myself from this sort of thing. The bright lights after a shaded dining room scare me off. But I must say this kitchen tour was a fascinating bonus. There were separate work stations for the cold appetizer, the hot appetizer, and all other components of the meal. The people looked like a precision team of experts. They smiled at us and seemed amused by their sighting of The High Flying Locusts. The place was spotless. I thought maybe I could fit in. The cellar was to die for. I especially wanted to work in the cellar. But I was sure Chuck already had the cellar or would have it soon. Maybe we can jobshare.

Lounging @ the W Plateau

Now, backing up a moment, I do wish to comment on the Mezzanine Bar at W Hotel in Montreal. Pretty much a country mouse, I attend places like this with a geewhiz shazaam viewpoint. I am the opposite of hip. But I do appreciate seeing the sheer volume of beautiful people in a place where they are expected to be beautiful and they goddam well deliver. I wore a Harris tweed sport jacket and a fine tie. Donovan said I looked like I was at work. I regretted not acting upon his comment when I saw a triumvirate of young men enter with their shirts stylishly hanging out in demonstration of affect that said “Oh God this is SO daily for us.” But I felt better when courteous Michael said I looked dapper. Dapper is good. At my age, dapper is something. Dapper is better than many other looks. It might not make GQ, but I would not humiliate myself when interviewed on NPR, if dapper.

Cleaning our Plates at Pintxo

Next evening, Pinxto was Proustian. I mean those late night bacchanals he hosted. Proust was in this case played handsomely by Michael. If I die tomorrow, I can at least say I have lived long enough to have dined with someone who actually said, quite grandly, “We would like every dish on the tapas menu, except the mixed salad.” You must know there were some 25 tapas on the menu. I think we suddenly were kicked up a notch by the owner, who realized that this was indeed his moment, The High Flying Locusts had arrived!! Donovan and I took great delight the next day in recalling that all tapas except the mixed salad had been ordered. We decided that the mixed salad was just too banal in name to even appear on the table. But then the parade of tapas did commence, in a well spaced progression from the kitchen, each one a treat, each one delicious, each one enticing in its uniqueness. I do not recall the wine singing here with the skill of the food, but it certainly was serviceable. Unbelievably, although each Locust also ordered an entrée after the tapas marathon, we all did acknowledge the next day that the entrees were probably de trop. Honorable mention must go to Robert, who exhibited manly restraint and actually allowed a portion of his food to be taken away unconsumed.

Stepping back again, we all met for cocktails in the bar at the Ritz. This bar is characterized by well spaced tables and courtly service that inspire good conversation. A great place to start an evening and focus on each other. Donovan and I are relatively new to The High Flying Locusts, so we appreciated the opportunities on this visit to converse.

The Foot of the Pig

On our last night, we experienced Au Pied de Cochon. It is truly a great experience when, amidst the swirling chaos of this place, one also realizes that one is dining at a restaurant that will be short-listed in one’s dining journal for various reasons: service, ambiance, food dynamism, portions (Oh Ye Happy Band of Men, Ye Happy Locusts), hospitality and just sheer fun. Our personal sommelier, Chuck, chose to outfit himself in native garb this evening, including a blue stocking cap tilted back on his head, giving him the allure of the woods, the musk of the logging camp and the cachet of après ski. He already has several categories of allure, so this really was grabby of him, but we forgave him instantly because he befriended all service staff with secret codes and signs, and soon we were in like Flynn with everyone who had the keys to our hungry hearts. Wines flowed in comfortable sync with an array of foods that came and went, crossed our table this way and that with tastings, commentaries and second offerings. Not what you would call an uptight restaurant!! The sought-after Sugar Pie got reserved ahead of time for our dessert phase. Special reserve dessert wines appeared. Somehow one knew this was no ordinary nice restaurant; this place was breaking boundaries and categories right and left and the peak moment seemed to be right now.

Our world class server bounced both of her hands in front of her mouth, gathering her extended fingertips around her thumb, to show us that the pork appetizer special that evening was “simple, simple, but so delicious.” Later, in commentary, Michael showed us with the same gesture that his appetizer had indeed been “simple, simple, but so delicious.” I am still smiling about that. You would have to see Michael do that to get the wit. Basically, his gesture might get me through the whole winter. The server in question should be put on Quebec’s list of National Treasures. Nanette would work for her name if that isn’t in fact her name. She is the Piaf of Pork! I was so enamored of her excellence that upon leaving I actually kissed her hand in the fashion of the European courts. Of course, this was totally inappropriate, but I hasten to add that only the most cautious nearness to her skin was involved, not even real contact with my lips. I read somewhere that was how you do it to be cool, so I was cool within my jerkiness. I can see Michael here, saying: “simple, simple, but so delicious.”

We’re driven by both imperatives, each trip to Montreal, and we felt that the stakes were higher this year because it wasn’t just us – we had four friends along for the ride. Yes, all were easy-going, all love great food, and most of them had been to Montreal before, but we still wanted to create a special experience for them, and highlight some what makes Montreal special to us.

I’ve already outlined the plan, so please allow this post to be about the experience of each restaurant; not a review per se, but a recounting of our time there.

Toque!

This was the celebratory dinner – the first night in Montreal for all of us; a chance to leave behind work, the 2008 Election, all things USA, and kick back. Toque was a great choice for this. Yes, it’s expensive, especially if you choose the tasting menu with wine, but we find that, more and more, we enjoy having the chef create the experience for us and match wine to it. In the best of circumstances, this can be the way to truly discover how a chef thinks and cooks, as well as the sommelier’s knowledge of wine. We were pleased with the experience at Toque; we found the atmosphere enjoyable, the food was delicious; and we were pleased that we could get a brief tour of the wine cellar and the kitchen afterward.

Pintxo

As I’ve explained previously, this was our choice to highlight the great neighborhood restaurants of Montreal. It’s hard to pick one and hope to do justice, but the point is to chill and enjoy it. Pintxo was great fun – we ate nearly every one of the small plates on the menu, and ordered seconds of a few of them. Several of us dived into a main dish, only to discover that we were more full than we expected; a few more tapas would have been excellent and we could have skipped the mains. The atmosphere at Pintxo is tight and convivial; we were a little loud, but then, so were our fellow diners at neighboring tables. No one cared; we all had a great time. The best part was the food, no surprise. There’s nothing quite as fun as getting exposed to new tastes in a no-pressure atmosphere. I wouldn’t call myself a fan of blood pudding, however nearly all of us had a taste because that’s all that was required of us – a taste. Plus, who wouldn’t enjoy seeing new plates of food arriving every couple of minutes? If Brunoise had survived a few weeks longer, we would have eaten there instead, but this “second choice” turned out to be really wonderful.

Au Pied de Cochon

I’m hesitant to admit that this was our second visit there… and still no foie gras. That’s another reason to go back. I think it would be hard to overstate our pleasure with this meal. All six of us ate till we could eat no more; we had excellent wine; we had a server who is a contender for Best Server of All Time – she fostered and magnified the sense of joy we had eating there, and her excitement and enthusiasm were so infectious. Martin Picard’s restaurant isn’t about pretension; it’s about eating good food. It’s loud, a bit raucous, a touch chaotic… but the food is consistently good. The cassoulet was tremendous; the venison tartare, delicious. I had bites of just about everything the others were eating, and it all tasted great, too. This year, we got Sugar Pie. (Last year, there were out of it.) In the company of our best friends, this rises above all other meals as the best dining experience of Montreal.

Gandhi

We’re fans of Gandhi – we like the food, the naan, in particular. We broke our rule and dined there twice – on Christmas Eve and again on Boxing Day. (It’s close to where we stay; I had a cold. It was easier just to go back than to venture out.) I think we were all pleased with the food, but it was one of those moments where you understand how important the ambiance is to your enjoyment of the evening. The restaurant was nearly empty – it was early, first of all; and on Christmas Eve, Indian food is often not at the top of one’s list. Well, we enjoyed the meal, as we did again on Boxing Day, but the traditionalist inside me wishes we had gone to Bonaparte again on Christmas Eve. As I’ve noted before, the Bonaparte menu is pretty much unchanged over 4 years of Christmas Eve dining, but it’s always full on Christmas Eve, and its Quebecois/French cuisine is what traditionalists like me enjoy on such a night. Perhaps next year.

Otto

This is the fourth year in a row of dining on Christmas night at Otto – the restaurant in the W Hotel. After three years of a nearly empty dining room, we were surprised to see the place get positively busy; so were the staff – they were calling in reinforcements. The menu has changed in recent weeks, and although we’ve always had good experiences, I think this was the best meal we’ve had there so far. We often feel like we’re copping out by going to Otto – after all, it’s a hotel restaurant. But on Christmas, there’s precious little open; hotel restaurants are our best option. Perhaps we could have been more adventurous – our list included untried restaurants at the St James, St Paul and Le Meridien Hotels, but Otto proved to be not only a comfortable dining experience, the food was also very enjoyable.

Final Thoughts

Unless our friends flat out lied to us, they enjoyed themselves at these restaurants. I think it’s hard to arrive at a perfect choice, the larger your group gets. But we were blessed to be a group of six hungry, curious guys, who live food, love wine, and genuinely enjoyed each others’ company.

Does it get any better than that?

We’ll rendezvous in Toronto on December 20th with Bob and Michael, and they’ll join us on the train to Montreal on 12/21. When we arrive in Montreal, we’ll meet up with Howard and Donovan. They be with us until Christmas Eve; Bob and Michael will return home the day after Christmas.

As I’ve noted before, the presence of others has caused us to shift our approach to dining plans. Both couples have been in Montreal before, but not during the holidays. What we’re aiming to give them is a small taste of the city, knowing that we can’t begin to show everything we’ve discovered about Montreal, much less the vastness of the city we haven’t yet discovered.

Here’s how things are shaping up:

Toronto
12/20: Rain – the Rubinos are celebrities, and their restaurant gets some backlash because of it, but over multiple visits, we’ve loved the experience. Guy Rubino creates some really amazing dishes; we like the design of the space; Robert Gonsalves is one of the best pastry chefs around. I still remember a food and wine pairing from a tasting menu two years ago that was the most seamless expression of a pairing that I’ve ever had. Toronto has some good restaurants; in the “great” category, there’s Susur and we must break old habits to visit it soon. But sometimes it fun to drop in on an old friend, after nearly two years to the day since our last visit to Rain, we’re looking forward to it.

Montreal
12/21: Toque – this restaurant regularly surfaces in the “top restaurants” lists, and it has a solid reputation. We’ve never been, so I’ll have more to say in about a month. Chuck chose it because it’s likely to be a perfect “first night” restaurant, one of those places you choose to go because you’re in a celebratory mood and you want a crowd around you. I think it’s a great choice.

12/22: Pintxo – this was to be our night at Brunoise, which closed about a week ago. Forced to make another choice, we went with another restaurant we’ve not visited, but one that lets us focus on the smaller neighborhood bistro, which, despite the loss of Brunoise and Anise, seems to flourish in Montreal. Pinxto has a solid reputation; again, we’ll have more to say after we’ve been there.

12/23: Au Pied de Cochon – Martin Picard’s restaurant hits several buttons at once: quintessential Montreal, neighborhood establishment, solid reputation, den of decadence. Where else should one worship foie gras than in a loud restaurant, packed to the gills with diners who can’t get enough of it? Chuck and I ate here for the first time last year, and it’s been on every version of this list we’ve made since then.

12/24, 12/25 and 12/26 are still up in the air. I have a soft spot for Bonaparte on Christmas Eve; it’s traditional French/Quebecois, a little frumpy – it just feels right for Christmas Eve, where the stately meal is followed by bedtime viewing of “Scrooge” on CBC. Chuck, however, notes that the menu hasn’t changed in three years. This is largely true. So Bonaparte maybe out this year – at least for Christmas Eve. Christmas night, it’s hard to find much open, so it might turn out to be our lifesaver that night. Last year, we noticed that Gandhi had a special meal for Christmas Eve – we hadn’t noticed this in previous years. That’s tempting, if they’re planning it again for this year.

Lunch: I expect we’ll visit the usual suspects: Olive et Gourmando, Titanic, Holder, Cluny.

More updates as we nail it down.