To recap, Marc André-Jetté and Patrice Demers left Laloux in May 2009 to relaunch Newtown, and Eric Gonzalez moved over to Laloux from XO. Both moves resulted in good reviews for Newtown and Laloux. We ate at Newtown and Laloux on December 19th and 20th 2009, respectively, and we loved both restaurants, giving a slight edge to Gonzalez’s stellar performance at Laloux.

Even as we dined there, Gonzalez had already announced he was leaving for a new project, which we now know is Auberge Saint-Gabriel in the Old City.

Well, that was long. So, here we are today, with Seth Gabrielse at the helm of Laloux. It’s his first time in charge of a kitchen but he’s had excellent training at the side of Racha Bassoul, who ran the long-closed, long-lamented Anise. (Bassoul joined Gabrielse at Laloux in February for a special dinner.)

Voir has published what looks to be the first major review of Laloux in its new, Middle Eastern-flavored version, and overall, it’s quite positive. The kitchen is “less spectacular” than it was under Gonzalez, writes the reviewer, but there’s praise for the subtle spicing of the new dishes, and there are still a few Laloux and bistro classics on the menu. Special notes for Michelle Marek, Laloux’s incomparable pastry chef, and well as the assistant sommelier Theo Diamantis. We met him in December and greatly enjoyed him. (Sommelier David Vincent is also brilliant.) The Voir assessment: This is the kitchen of a promising young chef, who will only get better.

photo credit: Christine Bourgier

First, a reset: Each year, we spend the Christmas holiday in Montreal, with a trip of 6-8 days. We’ve done this since 2004. We do it because it’s relaxing, a nice time to reconnect with friends who join us, and it’s become, over time, its own holiday tradition.

We like to eat good food, and so a big part of our planning for the trip is actually planning where we’ll eat. Each year, we choose a mix of favorite restaurants, as well as a few new ones to try.

This year, with 8 nights to fill and perhaps a 9th, here’s the plan:

• Friday 12/18: Toqué
• Saturday 12/19: Newtown
• Sunday 12/20: Laloux
• Monday 12/21: Trois Petit Bouchons
• Tuesday 12/22: DNA
• Wednesday 12/23: Au Pied de Cochon
• Thursday 12/24: Bonaparte
• Friday 12/25: TBD

There are long-time favorites like Toqué and Au Pied de Cochon; restaurants we tried last year and enjoyed, like DNA and Laloux; new restaurants on the list, like Trois Petit Bouchons and Newtown; and the Christmas Eve tradition, Bonaparte. In the case of Newtown, we’re following the chefs, Marc-André Jetté and Patrice Demers, from Laloux to their new venue.

I’ve written about this before, but one of the factors Chuck considers when he’s working on the plans is the style and type of restaurants on the list. He likes a mix of “signature experiences” and homier fare. Naturally, he wants all of it to be good. Now, he’s figuring out whether we’re too heavy on a certain style of bistro cooking – expressed differently at each restaurant, but still similar in style and concept. If that’s the case, I expect we’ll see a replacement of the dinner for Monday night – jumping into one of the ethnic traditions, perhaps.

More to come.

This is the question that vexes the traveler who isn’t planning to spend the holidays with family or friends. And the holidays are a great leveler because whether you’re new to a city or a frequent visitor, you can still be frustrated when you start to feel hunger pangs and you face the prospect of block after block of closed restaurants.

We’ve been spending the holiday in Montreal for 6 years now, and every year, we subject our long-considered list of desired restaurants to the reality of holiday hours. Most of the time we can make it all work out. We arrive about a week before Christmas and leave shortly thereafter, so we can manage our reservations around what’s open on a particular night.

But it’s not easy. Not only do most restaurants close for a few days (or longer) but others close capriciously – and here’s what I mean by that: last year, we reserved at Bronte about 3 weeks before our trip – it had been on our list for a couple years and we wanted to check it out. A week before our trip, Bronte called. They wouldn’t be able to fulfill our reservation on Open Table because they were actually closed that night. Why they’d not communicated that with Open Table? I’m not sure, but during the phone conversation they told us they’d be open on Boxing Day and they could accommodate us. So, we reserved for 12/26. On the afternoon of 12/26, Bronte called again: “We’re sorry but we won’t be open tonight.” It’s likely they looked at the number of reservations for the evening and decided it wasn’t worth bringing in the staff. Understandable, but frustrating, and Bronte is now off our list.

Christmas Eve is usually workable. A number of reputable restaurants are open because families and large parties often eat out before Midnight Mass or other celebrations. Christmas night is another matter. With the exception of hotel restaurants or Chinese restaurants, most everything is closed. Our Christmas dining record? Four Christmas night meals at Otto (W Hotel) and one dinner at Koko (Opus Hotel).

Whenever I mention Otto as the Christmas Night meal, it seems, a Chowhound or foodie will write to say something like, “I hardly think Otto is a great choice for someone interested in food.” To which I always respond with a sanitized version of, “Duh, but please suggest a better restaurant that’s open on Christmas Night.” I’ve never received a suggestion.

Chinese restaurants are a well-known option for Christmas Night because many of them are open. That’s something we’ve considered, except that our other Christmas Day tradition, dim sum for lunch, provides us with enough Chinese food for the day.

Locals can’t often provide much help with this question because most of them are at home with family and friends, recovering from a huge Christmas dinner.

But surely someone – tourist or local – has gone to a restaurant on Christmas Night in Montreal. If you’ve done so, where have you gone? What can you recommend?

photo: Christmas Day dim sum consumption at Ruby Rouge

This follows a somewhat lukewarm review from Lesley Chesterman in the Montreal Gazette – albeit just a few weeks after the restaurant had reopened.

Perhaps a few hiccups at the outset, but they now seem to be firing on all cylinders. Friends of mine confirm this from their recent visit to Newtown, and we’ll be there in a few months to see for ourself.

Readers of this blog know that food matters a lot to us, and on a vacation where the goal is to relax and do little or nothing, planning meals takes center stage.

Each year, we choose a mix of old favorites, as well as new restaurants to try, and for our 8 dinners this winter, here are the 10 restaurants that have made the first cut:

• Laloux
• Newtown
• DNA
• Le Club Chasse et Peche
• Toque
• Mas Cuisine
• Au Pied de Cochon
• Restaurant La Chronique
• Bonaparte
• Otto

Favorites:

Laloux is now helmed by Eric Gonzalez, and the initial reviews are good, as expected. We ate his food at Cube in 2006. We went to Laloux twice in 2008 and loved it. Newtown is where you now find Marc-André Jetté and Patrice Demers, lately from Laloux. Their review in the Gazette in July was more guarded, but we were so impressed at Laloux that we’ll head to Newtown. DNA is impressive; we had an excellent meal there in 2008, and our friends enjoyed it again in May of this year. Plus it’s kind of fun to sit in a space that looks like a Borg cube and watch the holiday fireworks over the Old Port. Toque has had its ups and downs with reviewers, but we’ve had two excellent dinners here in 2007 and 2008, so we’ll return. The wine list is also quite good. Au Pied de Cochon – well, what can we say that hasn’t been said? A dinner here is de rigeur.

New Entrants:

La Chronique has floated around the planning list for a couple years now, and I think this will be the year when we give the bistro a try. Le Club Chasse et Peche is another restaurant that’s landed on our restaurant list at least twice, only to drop off. Not a statement about the quality of its food, but more the result of difficult choices. Mas Cuisine is run by the former chef from Bruinoise, which was a restaurant we loved in 2006, now just a memory. Brunoise is still fresh in our minds, so we’ll hope for a repeat at Mas Cuisine.

Christmas Eve and Christmas Night:

These two days present their own challenges, since so many restaurants close for one or both days. Hotel/Auberge dining options are usually reliable, and while Bonaparte and the W Hotel’s Otto aren’t what I would call stunning, each is reliably good. And as I’ve said so many times here, Bonaparte is kind of special on Christmas Eve, with its traditional, beautifully cooked, French/Quebecois food.

I’ll say more as we get closer and start working the list against our calendar and each restaurant’s plans around the holidays.

We had this dessert twice at Laloux, and Chuck re-created it at home for friends earlier this year. As of this writing, it’s not on the menu at Laloux or Newtown, but we hope it will reappear at one or both restaurants!

Laloux

In the Montreal Gazette, Lesley Chesterman visits and finds much to praise in the cooking of Eric Gonzalez and pastry chef Michelle Marek. First the setting, which hasn’t changed a bit and that makes her happy (and us, too). Next, the food and wine, both of which meet her high expectations.

We saw Gonzalez in action in 2006 at Cube, just before it closed, and we’re pleased that he continues to dazzle.

If you’re thinking about restaurant choices for your next trip to Montreal, or you’ve been to Laloux in the past and want to make sure its reputation is untarnished, this review should help you arrive at a decision.

Newtown

Next, Chesterman’s review of Newtown, under Marc André Jetté and Patrice Demers, both recently departed from Laloux. Chesterman’s visits occurred only about 6 weeks into their tenure there, and the results are mixed. With Jetté, her issue seems to be with execution rather than vision, and she has quibbles with Demers’ approach to portion sizes for desserts.

Her biggest problem seems to be with the venue, which despite a few touchups here and there is still basically the same space it was in 2001. Time for a change, and Chesterman suggests it’s worth considering a name change – something we thought might happen back when the Chef Musical Chairs got underway.

Our Plans

We ate at Laloux twice on our last trip. It was a brilliant dining experience both times. We plan to return, to discover firsthand what Gonzalez and Marek are up to. And despite the less stellar beginning for Newtown, we’ll be there in a few months, too, because Jetté and Demers are remarkably talented and we expect them to be into the swing of things, and producing great meals.

And, based on the word of Montreal Foodie, which we’ve come to trust over the years, it might be worth a free look around, but perhaps not for lunch.

Mari-Claude Lortie of La Presse blogs that Éric Gonzalez will be the new chef at Laloux, replacing Marc André Jetté, who has departed for Newtown with Patrice Demers, as we’ve already noted.

We’re familiar with Gonzalez from his time at Cube until late 2006 (we ate there the final night); he went to XO at the Hotel St James after that.

In the meantime, over at Newtown, Lortie reports that there’s no decision yet on changing the name of the restaurant, but it will be closed for about a week for some redecorating. It re-opens on May 26th with Jetté and Demers at the helm.

Demers and Jetté will move to the kitchen at Newtown on May 17th. We don’t know a lot about Newtown, but its reputation (if you read the Chowhound boards) seems to stand on its current bar/club/dining atmosphere, more so than the food.

Whatever the case, it looks like we can wipe the slate clean because there are likely to be some cosmetic changes to the restaurant, perhaps a name change, and most important, Demers and Jetté will overhaul the menu.

This brings upheaval to Laloux, which has a long history in the neighborhood. The restaurant languished a few years before the arrival of the duo in 2007. Demers and Jetté are young, but have a list of accomplishments that belies their age, and we look forward to what they plan for Newtown.

Actually, it’s worth mentioning a few other shifts because they impact another restaurant we’ve blogged about here.

Le Local is losing Alexandre Gosselin and Éric Dupuis. Gosselin is moving to the new Bar et Bouef, soon to open in Old Montreal. Dupuis is going to Leméac. Charles-Antoine Pariseau of Leméac? He’s going to Le Local.

Got that? Bottom line, everything we’ve said about Le Local and Laloux is no longer applicable.

One final note about Laloux: a restaurant is an experience that includes more than just the chefs and the meals. It’s the ambience, the waitstaff, the sommelier David Vincent, too, and all were exceptional at Laloux. We’re also looking forward to what happens there.

• December 19:
• December 20: DNA
• December 21: au Pied de Cochon
• December 22: Laloux
• December 23: Le Local
• December 24: Bronte
• December 25:
• December 26: au Pied de Cochon

I noted earlier this year that we couldn’t resist dining at APDC twice on this trip, but we reserve the right to restrain our foies gras desires, should reason prevail.

We’re happy with this list because, with the exception of APDC, every restaurant is a new experience for us. December 25th is a big uncertainty. On Christmas night, very little is open except for hotel restaurants. For the past four years, we’ve had Christmas night dinner at Otto in the W Hotel. That’s a perfectly acceptable choice for this year, too, but we’re keeping our options open – perhaps the restaurant at Le Germain or the St. James or the St Paul. Or there’s Niu Kee, which is usually open on Christmas night.

We’re told it’s a selection of French, Spanish and Italian dishes, and the two reviews I’ve seen so far (both highlighted on the Barroco web site) are positive.

What is a good thing is the opening of another bistro in the less-trafficked, less-touristy “West of St. Laurent” section of Old Montreal. This is the part of the old city that we find most enjoyable, and it’s where we stay every year. Olive et Gourmando is a fixture on this side of St Paul, and there are notable restaurants like Titanic, Holder, Gandhi, Stash, etc., etc. But Barroco, DNA and some of the other new openings this year are most welcome and will bring new life to “our end of the street.”

One thing we can say about Barroco is the great location. We used to go to Cobalt before it closed in early 2007, and it was a cozy (I hate that word) rustic space with a front window you could fling open in the summer to welcome the sounds of the street.

• Barroco
• 312 rue St Paul Ouest
• 514-544-5800

Nota Bene in Toronto takes the #1 spot, but right behind is a new Montreal restaurant that we’ve mentioned a few times: Le Local on William in Old Montreal.

enRoute describes the restaurant as a little baffling:

First there’s the location, somewhere between Old Montreal and an expressway on-ramp. Then there’s the fact that the floors are concrete and the walls are hardwood. Angled mirrors reflect not the diners but the buzz of the open kitchen. The staff can seem rude one minute, gracious the next. Don’t look to the menu for any help; it offers a cochonnailles plate with “a mixture of interesting things,” cassolette d’escargots and deer tartar with pickle cream. The butternut squash soup and chestnut purée is served with what resembles a baby spoon.

In a less food-savvy city, such a scene might detract from the food or cause the kitchen to get lazy. Not here.

Chowhounders have not been uniformly happy with the service here, but from the chatter, it’s clear they’re paying attention. So are we.

Also of note: Liverpool House (from the people who brought us Joe Beef) also represents Montreal on the list. (2501 rue Notre Dame O.)

This is the first list we’ve created to roughly approximate the number of dinners we’ll have in Montreal. I wish I could say it represents the results of exhaustive research, but it doesn’t. However, Chuck and I have been reading menus for the past few days.

• Dinner 1: Laloux
• Dinner 2: Au Pied du Cochon
• Dinner 3: DNA
• Dinner 4: Le Club Chasse et Pesce
• Dinner 5: Bonaparte
• Dinner 6: Le Germain: Laurie Raphael
• Dinner 7: Yoyo
• Dinner 8: Au Pied du Cochon

This order isn’t exact – we need to rationalize it with the restaurant holiday schedules, but it’s a good start. There are several first-time visits: Laloux, DNA, Chasse et Pesce, Laurie Raphael, Yoyo; only two repeats – Bonaparte and APDC.

Why in heaven’s name would we visit APDC twice in one trip? Despite the caloric burden, Chuck has repeatedly suggested this since our last visit in December 07. Well, while we’ve eaten better food elsewhere, our experiences at APDC – the ambiance, food, service, conviviality – have been unforgettable. (Our friend Howard sums it up beautifully here.) I hesitate to refer to any one restaurant as the quintessence of Quebecois dining; no single place captures that. But for us, it’s come to represent this city that celebrates pleasure.

What about Gandhi? Holder? Well, there’s always lunch, and thus, the planning continues.

The same Chowhound correspondent reported in May that the cafe was closing because of a dispute with the landlord.

Fans will be delighted to enjoy the brunches, the homemade caramel sauce and incredibly good chocolates (a serious holiday weakness of ours) once again. Those of us who visit Old Montreal will have to get out to Mile End – not a bad idea, since there’s much to do and eat there. We’ll keep an eye open for official word of the re-opening.

• Bouchees Gourmandes
• 1226 Bernard
• 514-845-3663

This blog has chronicled our restaurant thinking and planning since 2006, and you can see the 2006 redux, as well as the 2007 discussion and a review of some of the 2007 restaurants from the inimitable Howard Schaefer. It’s chronicled restaurants that closed before we got to them (Anise, Bazaar Anise, Chevre) and some that closed after one visit (Cube, Brunoise) when we would have liked a second opportunity to dine there.

Truth be told, I’m more into this thing about making a list 120 days out from a trip than Chuck is, but from our previous visits, here are the prime candidates for a repeat visit.

2007: Pintxo

In 2007, there were two significant additions to our dining list: Toqué and Pintxo. Toqué was a celebratory event, an evening with all four of our friends for a dinner that would be memorable. Toqué doesn’t disappoint, but I doubt we’ll go back this year because we’ll be alone and less in need of the over-the-top dinner event. Pintxo, on the other hand, is a top candidate for 2008. It was a supremely pleasurable experience, and despite ordering everything on the menu (except the mixed salad), I think there’s more to enjoy there.

2006: Au Pied de Cochon

A significant percentage of web text about Montreal restaurants is devoted to this establishment, and this blog has contributed a fair amount, too, so I’ll spare you an additional review here. But our dinner there in 2006 led to a group celebration in 2007; and following those smashing successes, we’ll be back again this year. We’re spending a record 8 nights in Montreal this holiday, and we’ve talked about going twice, once before Christmas and again after. The caloric weight of two visits in such a short period of time may be more than my body can bear, but I’m willing to put it to the test.

2005: Gandhi

I written alot about Gandhi here; we think they serve some really good Indian food, and we like to visit often when we’re in Montreal. It’s also just steps away from the auberge where we stay, which makes it a convenient stop when we’re hungry and tired after a long day of leisure.

2004: Bato Thai, Bonaparte, Otto

Unless I’ve miscalculated, we’ve not been to Bato Thai since 2005, so I can’t vouch for its current state, but we had three great meals there, we like the Thai food there a lot, and I’ve heard little since then to convince me otherwise. It might be worth another visit. Bonaparte is one of the our most visited restaurants in Montreal, in part because it’s close to the auberge, and it’s a nice “French dining experience.” I enjoyed it most for Christmas Eve, and we kept that tradition until 2007. It could return this year, and so could Otto, which has been the Christmas night restaurant since 2004. It’s just good food, the menu changes regularly, service is good, the wine list is fine. Christmas night choices for dining are limited, naturally, and although we’ve talked about Niu Kee for a couple years, so far we’ve booked at Otto every Christmas.

So to summarize:

Candidates for a repeat visit:

• Pintxo
• APDC
• Gandhi
• Bato Thai
• Bonaparte
• Otto

New Contenders (new to our list, I mean):

• Laloux has actually been on our list for some time, and Chuck is concerned that we make 2008 the year we get there. A search of “Laloux” will bring up enough reviews to confirm that this is a restaurant that deserves to be on the list. It’s been called the best in Montreal by many, and the best in Canada by some. We hope to draw our own conclusion.
• Le Local has generated a fair amount of buzz, not all of it positive, since it opened. I expect Chuck and I will give it some consideration.
• Holder has been around longer, and also receives generally positive reviews. We’ve kept this restaurant as an option for a couple years now… perhaps this year.
• Joe Beef
• Niu Kee: 1163 rue Clark
• Restaurant YoYo

The New Contender list will grow, I’m sure, and I’ll keep you up-to-date.

What about lunch? That’s next.

Now, comes word that Bazaar Anise will close on July 13th, due to the owner’s health and a doctor’s recommendation, according to the Chowhound member.

We’re sad to discover that this will likely be the last incarnation of Anise.

- – -

Opening Night: Toque!

As an eating team, we should have been dubbed The High Flying Locusts, for truly it was a swath we cut through Montreal haute cuisine. At Toque’, the delight in the presentation of each course paired with its wine was palpable around the table. I could be projecting a bit here. Robert and Michael eat everywhere fabulous, more fabulous and most fabulous, so this may not have knocked their socks off, but they looked well pleased. An exciting presentation style with handsome servers attending the table, announcing the food in English, and the exotic Pascal Paradis announcing (possibly in English) well-chosen wines from all over the world, made this meal for me the celebratory event that Todd had predicted. Todd also took momentary leave of his senses and hosted the meal entirely, a Herculean demonstration of courage and generosity. Funding the meals of The High Flying Locusts in major cuisine ports of call is not for the faint hearted.

I must say I am so easily amused. I just loved all the different plates that came out with each of the seven courses, blobby shapes, round, oval, square, different colors; it kept things a little off the expectable. This discovery, and the mid-century color palette in the dining room, caused me to think I had found the key to the name of the restaurant, which Donovan translated as ‘crazy.” I couldn’t identify anything else crazy about this place. Foodwise, I was well pleased with tastes, textures, amounts, presentation and progression, but especially memorable for me was the at times uncannily smooth continuum between the special tastes in the food and in the paired wines. I recall that Donovan later said to me that we had been at table four hours. I was surprised to hear this as the time went by so pleasurably fast. This ranks high as a truly memorable and festive meal with a relaxed, but precise signature. Chuck worked his elfin magic and scored us a tour of the kitchen. I normally would excuse myself from this sort of thing. The bright lights after a shaded dining room scare me off. But I must say this kitchen tour was a fascinating bonus. There were separate work stations for the cold appetizer, the hot appetizer, and all other components of the meal. The people looked like a precision team of experts. They smiled at us and seemed amused by their sighting of The High Flying Locusts. The place was spotless. I thought maybe I could fit in. The cellar was to die for. I especially wanted to work in the cellar. But I was sure Chuck already had the cellar or would have it soon. Maybe we can jobshare.

Lounging @ the W Plateau

Now, backing up a moment, I do wish to comment on the Mezzanine Bar at W Hotel in Montreal. Pretty much a country mouse, I attend places like this with a geewhiz shazaam viewpoint. I am the opposite of hip. But I do appreciate seeing the sheer volume of beautiful people in a place where they are expected to be beautiful and they goddam well deliver. I wore a Harris tweed sport jacket and a fine tie. Donovan said I looked like I was at work. I regretted not acting upon his comment when I saw a triumvirate of young men enter with their shirts stylishly hanging out in demonstration of affect that said “Oh God this is SO daily for us.” But I felt better when courteous Michael said I looked dapper. Dapper is good. At my age, dapper is something. Dapper is better than many other looks. It might not make GQ, but I would not humiliate myself when interviewed on NPR, if dapper.

Cleaning our Plates at Pintxo

Next evening, Pinxto was Proustian. I mean those late night bacchanals he hosted. Proust was in this case played handsomely by Michael. If I die tomorrow, I can at least say I have lived long enough to have dined with someone who actually said, quite grandly, “We would like every dish on the tapas menu, except the mixed salad.” You must know there were some 25 tapas on the menu. I think we suddenly were kicked up a notch by the owner, who realized that this was indeed his moment, The High Flying Locusts had arrived!! Donovan and I took great delight the next day in recalling that all tapas except the mixed salad had been ordered. We decided that the mixed salad was just too banal in name to even appear on the table. But then the parade of tapas did commence, in a well spaced progression from the kitchen, each one a treat, each one delicious, each one enticing in its uniqueness. I do not recall the wine singing here with the skill of the food, but it certainly was serviceable. Unbelievably, although each Locust also ordered an entrée after the tapas marathon, we all did acknowledge the next day that the entrees were probably de trop. Honorable mention must go to Robert, who exhibited manly restraint and actually allowed a portion of his food to be taken away unconsumed.

Stepping back again, we all met for cocktails in the bar at the Ritz. This bar is characterized by well spaced tables and courtly service that inspire good conversation. A great place to start an evening and focus on each other. Donovan and I are relatively new to The High Flying Locusts, so we appreciated the opportunities on this visit to converse.

The Foot of the Pig

On our last night, we experienced Au Pied de Cochon. It is truly a great experience when, amidst the swirling chaos of this place, one also realizes that one is dining at a restaurant that will be short-listed in one’s dining journal for various reasons: service, ambiance, food dynamism, portions (Oh Ye Happy Band of Men, Ye Happy Locusts), hospitality and just sheer fun. Our personal sommelier, Chuck, chose to outfit himself in native garb this evening, including a blue stocking cap tilted back on his head, giving him the allure of the woods, the musk of the logging camp and the cachet of après ski. He already has several categories of allure, so this really was grabby of him, but we forgave him instantly because he befriended all service staff with secret codes and signs, and soon we were in like Flynn with everyone who had the keys to our hungry hearts. Wines flowed in comfortable sync with an array of foods that came and went, crossed our table this way and that with tastings, commentaries and second offerings. Not what you would call an uptight restaurant!! The sought-after Sugar Pie got reserved ahead of time for our dessert phase. Special reserve dessert wines appeared. Somehow one knew this was no ordinary nice restaurant; this place was breaking boundaries and categories right and left and the peak moment seemed to be right now.

Our world class server bounced both of her hands in front of her mouth, gathering her extended fingertips around her thumb, to show us that the pork appetizer special that evening was “simple, simple, but so delicious.” Later, in commentary, Michael showed us with the same gesture that his appetizer had indeed been “simple, simple, but so delicious.” I am still smiling about that. You would have to see Michael do that to get the wit. Basically, his gesture might get me through the whole winter. The server in question should be put on Quebec’s list of National Treasures. Nanette would work for her name if that isn’t in fact her name. She is the Piaf of Pork! I was so enamored of her excellence that upon leaving I actually kissed her hand in the fashion of the European courts. Of course, this was totally inappropriate, but I hasten to add that only the most cautious nearness to her skin was involved, not even real contact with my lips. I read somewhere that was how you do it to be cool, so I was cool within my jerkiness. I can see Michael here, saying: “simple, simple, but so delicious.”

We’re driven by both imperatives, each trip to Montreal, and we felt that the stakes were higher this year because it wasn’t just us – we had four friends along for the ride. Yes, all were easy-going, all love great food, and most of them had been to Montreal before, but we still wanted to create a special experience for them, and highlight some what makes Montreal special to us.

I’ve already outlined the plan, so please allow this post to be about the experience of each restaurant; not a review per se, but a recounting of our time there.

Toque!

This was the celebratory dinner – the first night in Montreal for all of us; a chance to leave behind work, the 2008 Election, all things USA, and kick back. Toque was a great choice for this. Yes, it’s expensive, especially if you choose the tasting menu with wine, but we find that, more and more, we enjoy having the chef create the experience for us and match wine to it. In the best of circumstances, this can be the way to truly discover how a chef thinks and cooks, as well as the sommelier’s knowledge of wine. We were pleased with the experience at Toque; we found the atmosphere enjoyable, the food was delicious; and we were pleased that we could get a brief tour of the wine cellar and the kitchen afterward.

Pintxo

As I’ve explained previously, this was our choice to highlight the great neighborhood restaurants of Montreal. It’s hard to pick one and hope to do justice, but the point is to chill and enjoy it. Pintxo was great fun – we ate nearly every one of the small plates on the menu, and ordered seconds of a few of them. Several of us dived into a main dish, only to discover that we were more full than we expected; a few more tapas would have been excellent and we could have skipped the mains. The atmosphere at Pintxo is tight and convivial; we were a little loud, but then, so were our fellow diners at neighboring tables. No one cared; we all had a great time. The best part was the food, no surprise. There’s nothing quite as fun as getting exposed to new tastes in a no-pressure atmosphere. I wouldn’t call myself a fan of blood pudding, however nearly all of us had a taste because that’s all that was required of us – a taste. Plus, who wouldn’t enjoy seeing new plates of food arriving every couple of minutes? If Brunoise had survived a few weeks longer, we would have eaten there instead, but this “second choice” turned out to be really wonderful.

Au Pied de Cochon

I’m hesitant to admit that this was our second visit there… and still no foie gras. That’s another reason to go back. I think it would be hard to overstate our pleasure with this meal. All six of us ate till we could eat no more; we had excellent wine; we had a server who is a contender for Best Server of All Time – she fostered and magnified the sense of joy we had eating there, and her excitement and enthusiasm were so infectious. Martin Picard’s restaurant isn’t about pretension; it’s about eating good food. It’s loud, a bit raucous, a touch chaotic… but the food is consistently good. The cassoulet was tremendous; the venison tartare, delicious. I had bites of just about everything the others were eating, and it all tasted great, too. This year, we got Sugar Pie. (Last year, there were out of it.) In the company of our best friends, this rises above all other meals as the best dining experience of Montreal.

Gandhi

We’re fans of Gandhi – we like the food, the naan, in particular. We broke our rule and dined there twice – on Christmas Eve and again on Boxing Day. (It’s close to where we stay; I had a cold. It was easier just to go back than to venture out.) I think we were all pleased with the food, but it was one of those moments where you understand how important the ambiance is to your enjoyment of the evening. The restaurant was nearly empty – it was early, first of all; and on Christmas Eve, Indian food is often not at the top of one’s list. Well, we enjoyed the meal, as we did again on Boxing Day, but the traditionalist inside me wishes we had gone to Bonaparte again on Christmas Eve. As I’ve noted before, the Bonaparte menu is pretty much unchanged over 4 years of Christmas Eve dining, but it’s always full on Christmas Eve, and its Quebecois/French cuisine is what traditionalists like me enjoy on such a night. Perhaps next year.

Otto

This is the fourth year in a row of dining on Christmas night at Otto – the restaurant in the W Hotel. After three years of a nearly empty dining room, we were surprised to see the place get positively busy; so were the staff – they were calling in reinforcements. The menu has changed in recent weeks, and although we’ve always had good experiences, I think this was the best meal we’ve had there so far. We often feel like we’re copping out by going to Otto – after all, it’s a hotel restaurant. But on Christmas, there’s precious little open; hotel restaurants are our best option. Perhaps we could have been more adventurous – our list included untried restaurants at the St James, St Paul and Le Meridien Hotels, but Otto proved to be not only a comfortable dining experience, the food was also very enjoyable.

Final Thoughts

Unless our friends flat out lied to us, they enjoyed themselves at these restaurants. I think it’s hard to arrive at a perfect choice, the larger your group gets. But we were blessed to be a group of six hungry, curious guys, who live food, love wine, and genuinely enjoyed each others’ company.

Does it get any better than that?

This is truly sad news for us – we found out today when the reservation we made last night for our upcoming trip, returned via email today with a note from staff about the closing.

Another one bites the dust, eh? Comments on Chowhound reference an article in the Montreal Gazette the other day; it seems the restaurant struggled to make money, in competition with other restaurants in its price category. Other factors were cited, too, including the sale of the building.

La Brasserie Brunoise will continue in operation, so that’s a saving grace, but it’s sad to see restaurants with a high caliber of cooking, like Anise and Brunoise, go away. (Anise also continues in another form)

Luckily, we had the chance to dine at Brunoise last year. It was a night of freezing rain, and we went sliding out of the Metro station to St Andre to enjoy a really wonderful meal, capped off by the vanilla panna cotta with basil syrup.

We have the memory, at least.

It’s a different trip this year, in a couple ways. First, we’ll have two great friends joining us for the days leading up to Christmas Eve. I wouldn’t say we’ve tried to over-script those 3 days, but we have rearranged our plans somewhat to give them what we hope will be an enjoyable snapshot of the city. This means plenty of downtime, but also a few focus destinations – probably Musee d’art contemporain and the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts; perhaps a visit to Notre Dame Basilica. Up to now, we’ve avoided Schwartz’s, but we might make our first visit this year, using our friends as a good excuse.

Because Chuck and I are foodies, we’ve also started rearranging our restaurant plans to highlight particular favorite restaurants while they’re with us. The leading candidates for “Dinners for Four” are Au Pied de Cochon, BAZaAR Anise, Brunoise, and Bonaparte.

I would hesitate to portray these choices as quintessential. I think that’s a mistake a lot of people make when they visit a place – they either have a list set in stone that “represents” a city, or they become overwhelmed trying to create that kind of list. We won’t play that game, but we do have a rationale for our choices, which takes into account the menu, the chef, the reviews, the patron buzz (Chowhound and elsewhere), proximity to our hotel or accessibility via Metro, previous experience, etc.

“Cochon” isn’t a restaurant that “represents all of Montreal” but it certainly represents the vision of Chef Martin Picard, and there’s something about that place that makes you think it would be hard to locate elsewhere. Bonaparte very nicely executes the French/Quebec theme and the ambience is quiet and restrained. As neighborhood bistros, Brunoise and BAZaAR Anise might offer an experience no different than you’d find in any other bistro, but again, it’s the menu, flavors and execution that make these restaurants shine.

Then there’s lunch! Frankly, I could have lunch every day at Olive et Gourmando and never be unhappy, but I expect Chuck will expand the lunch choices.

So that’s where we are now. This list will change, I’m certain.

There was a flavorless gazpacho, but the reviewer went all frothy over the mains. The French language reviews have been positive, overall, too… based on my bad French language skills.

We’ve developed a bias against hotel restaurants, but we enjoyed the space, food and experience at Cube, so we might give its successor a try.

Vauvert
In the Hotel St-Paul, 355 McGill
514-876-2823

Cube was open for private parties and events a few months after closing, while its former chef, Eric Gonzalez, left for XO, the concept at the St James Hotel, a few blocks away.

Now, a new restaurant is on the way – Vauvert. My information about Vauvert, so far, is limited to the French language page posted at the old Cube web site. One learns little from the description beyond the desire to offer Montreal diners something different, something that respects the tradition of Cube, a menu that is accessible, etc.

Chef Pascal LeBlond is a Cube veteran. To quote the web site:

Il a reinvente des classiques de la cuisine Francaise Meridionale en leur donnant une tournure resolument Quebecoise.

We’ll keep an eye on it, and check it out in September if it’s up and running by then. In the meantime, we’ll watch the Vauvert web site; at present, it’s closed to public access.

The food looks to be more casual than the first incarnation – beek, pork, veal, venison… and some delectable appetizers – grilled Lebanese sausages with pomegranate molasses and lamb samosas flavoured with seven spices, pine nuts and red pepper tapenade – among the selections. Good, earthy food, drawn from a range of influences.

As with the first Anise, the second will be one to watch!

BAZaAR Anise
104 rue Laurier Ouest
(514) 276-6999

To that end, a couple notes from Chowhound:

The old Les Chevres space looks to morph into Le Joli Moulin, opening soon and specializing in steaks and seafood. This may well be an existing restaurant finding a new location.

Eric Gonzalez left Cube after it closed on December 23rd (we were there for the final night, quite coincidentally) is now at XO in the Hotel St. James.

We enjoyed a wonderfully relaxing hour there, sipping tea and coffee on a late Friday afternoon in December. On our next trip, we’re planning lunch there. Until there’s more tantalizing detail, either from us or from the Cluny web site, enjoy this review of Cluny from one of our favorite foodie blogs.

Cluny (257 rue Prince, 514-866-1213)

A few highlights: it’s apparent that Bombay Mahal is one of the strong contenders, at least among the Chowhound crowd. It also popped up in the 2005 Reader’s Poll from the Mirror. (not in 2006, though)

Bombay Mahal (1001 Jean-Talon W., 514-273-3331)

Others getting a number of mentions:

Maison de Cari Golden (5210 Saint-Laurent, 514-270-2561)
Ganges (6079 Sherbrooke W., 514-488-8850)

Chuck and I are both partial to Indian food. (Actually, we’re partial to any food.) In Montreal thus far, our exploration of Indian food has been limited to Gandhi in Old Montreal. Gandhi isn’t what I would call a bargain. Lunch there has cost us $35 for two; dinner, $90, including wine. But I think we’ve been impressed by the quality of the food. Gandhi seems to specialize in subtle, balanced flavors. So while I could say that the food is never as spicy as I’d like it, the balance is right, and that seems to be one of the key elements of Indian cooking. The first time we were there, I thought the naan was astounding – the best I’ve ever had. It may have been true – it may simply have been my overjoy state at having just arrived back in Montreal. I’m not sure. Even though I’ve not had this same experience subsequently, I still measure all of my naan encounters against that standard. I’ve written elsewhere that Gandhi offered a dinner on Christmas Eve in 2006. They might have done this in years past – I don’t remember that they did.

In any case, there’s likely to be another visit to Gandhi this year while we’re in Montreal, but I think we’ll also consider branching out – perhaps to Bombay Mahal.

Gandhi (230 rue St-Paul ouest, 514-845-5866)

Dinner
Friday 12/21 – Holder???
Saturday 12/22 – Brunoise???
Sunday 12/23 – Anise???
Christmas Eve 12/24 – Gandhi
Christmas Night 12/25 – Niu Kee
Wednesday 12/26 – Au Pied du Cochon

Montreal Bagels
Tokyo Sushi on St. Paul

Lunch
Olive et Gourmando
Pho Bang New York
Au Petit Express
Cluny
Titanic

* One lunch plus one dinner in Chinatown

When we first discovered this list, we were pleased to find all of our favorite restaurants on it. Now, we consult this list first when we’re planning our trips.