A Great Cup of Coffee at Café Myriade

Lesley Chesterman, writing in the Montréal Gazette, highlights Café Myriade in her piece about the perfect cup of coffee. It’s a chance to talk to Anthony Benda (one of the best baristas in Canada) about his views.

Coffee’s third wave: “A label that stands for bad service, snobbery, condescension, and under extracted coffees that have a vegetable taste.”

Filtered coffee: “The least sexy brewing method and it has been around for a while, but at least each cup is the same. Baristas hate it, though, because it takes them out of the process.”

Benda and business partner Scott Rao (author of The Professional Barista’s Handbook and Everything But Espresso) are brewing some great coffee in Montréal… check it out on your next trip there!

Café Myriade
1432 Mackay

Caffe in Gamba Struggles Through Construction

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The Gazette’s Lesley Chesterman writes that Caffe in Gamba’s business has dropped 35% this summer because of lengthy construction on the street in front of the building.

Check out the story and then I recommend two courses of action if you live in Montréal or are visiting:

1. Go to Café Myriade (because it’s exceptional)
2. Go to Caffe in Gamba (because it’s also excellent, and it needs your help)

Cafe Myriade rocks

So if I’ve tweeted this, should I blog it? What if I also Facebooked it? Well, here’s my Social Media strategy: at this moment, I don’t give a rat’s ass.

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I’m proud of Montreal’s Cafe Myriade because Anthony and Alex both placed in the Eastern Regional Canadian Barista Championship several days back: Anthony in first place, and Alex in third. Both will represent Montreal in the national competition in Vancouver in October.

Myriade produces beautiful coffee – something that’s not, strictly speaking, impossible to do. It serves it with a smile and without attitude, and after watching baristas at Intelligentsia or Ritual sigh or roll their eyes at customers who unknowingly broke this or that cardinal rule of coffee drinkery, I had come to believe that these achievements were mutually exclusive. Not so.

1432 rue Mackay

photo: Chuck’s excellent macchiato, prepared by Anthony at Cafe Myriade on December 20, 2008.

Montreal 2008: About Cafe Myriade

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Without a doubt, one of the highlights of our time in Montreal this holiday was the series of three visits to Cafe Myriade. It’s new, but it’s clearly established itself as one of the best cafes in the city, and to judge from the foaming at the mouth on Chowhound, I’m not the only one with this opinion.

I’m not all that great at talking about coffee using the special words that true coffee lovers use; I could certainly afford to study the beverage more closely. But I’ve had a lot of coffee, a lot of good coffee, too, and even if my appreciation of coffee outweighs my knowledge of varietals and brewing methods, I can say that the coffee we had at Myriade was the best coffee I’ve had anywhere, thus far. It beats Ritual, Intelligentsia and Blue Bottle – all of which are excellent.

But, coffee aside, the best thing about Myriade is the guy who is most often behind the machine. Anthony Benda is one of the most effortlessly customer-focused people I’ve met. Your visit to his cafe is about you, not about him, and in my opinion, that’s the chief reason why your choice of coffee, or brew method, or size of cup, isn’t an opportunity for you to be lectured in proper coffee etiquette at Myriade. If you want education, you have plenty of opportunities, with scheduled and, sometimes, impromptu tastings, if he’s not too busy.

Montreal is in the midst of a coffee renaissance. Cafe Myriade is the youngest offspring, but I think it’s the new leader.

the Cafe Myriade blog

Cafe Myriade

I think one can cut through a big bucket of gush with a couple of declarative statements:

  • Cafe Myriade is at the head of the pack because the cafe is unrelenting in its advocacy of excellent coffee, from beans to cup.
  • Cafe Myriade widens its lead over the rest of the pack because of its focus on customers as the core of the business, not coffee.

Quality

The beans from 49th Parallel in Vancouver are tops – I think they’re every bit as good as anything you can find. To my taste, this is a smoother coffee than Intelligentsia, Ritual, and Blue Bottle – a general statement about the character of their coffees rather than a specific varietal.

Innovation and Playfulness

The Siphon is one example of the cafe’s investment in lesser-known coffee-tech – the resulting coffee is more intense, higher in caffeine, I think, the nose and flavors more defined.

Customers Rule

I’m no different than anyone who likes good coffee: I want to enjoy coffee using the skills that I’ve acquired along the way, and I want to learn more about coffee so that the next experience is even more satisfying.Cafe Myriade

Welcoming Cafe Myriade

If you find yourself visiting Montreal on Monday (or any day thereafter) and you’re downtown, and you have a few minutes, and you like good coffee, then stop by Cafe Myriade on 1432 rue MacKay and buy an espresso from Anthony Benda.

Anthony is the latest sign of a true coffee culture in Montreal. After working at other people’s cafes, he’s now opening his own place. It joins Cafe Veritas and Caffe in Gamba, among others, and this can only be a good thing, as each cafe educates its clientele, which in turn, increases demand for the good stuff.

The first time I went to Montreal, I was bewildered by the Second Cups and the Van Houttes, and the apparent lack of any good coffee in the city. It turned out to be more an issue of scarcity and visibility, but that’s changed a lot in the past 4 years.

That’s great for the locals, but it’s good news for us tourists, too. We don’t have to be a slave to the chains when we’re visiting; chances are, whether we’re bedding down in the old city or downtown, there’s good coffee nearby.

Chowhound has a few threads – you can start with this one.

UPDATE: I heard from a couple patrons of Cafe Myriade on its first day, both of whom thought their cup of coffee was excellent. I also corrected the typo in Anthony’s last name. Sometimes, you can look at a post 20 different ways and not see somethng so obvious.

Updates: Cafe Myriade, our 08 holiday trip

I mentioned Anthony’s departure as barista at Cafe Sante Veritas a short while back, Anthony now provides some details about his new place, to be opening in downtown Montreal in October, most likely.

Cafe Myriade will be located on Mackay, between Ste. Catherine and Maissoneuve, which means it’s pretty close to that weird new Rice Pudding place (try not to confuse the two).

I’m excited because Montreal can use another good place for coffee, and the guy running the place is someone who cares about coffee. The other big thing about Myriade that makes me happy is the attention Anthony promises to give to drip coffee, which is something I care about a lot. You can go to places like Blue Bottle in San Francisco (it springs to mind because we’ll be there next week) and drink drip coffee that tastes, not like what you’d expect, but what you hope, drip coffee would taste like… fresh, rich, free of bitterness.

Even if you don’t get all frothy about drip coffee, you have to be heartened to know that this won’t be another shop with timers sitting on big pots of brew.

And now, a word about our next trip to Montreal. We don’t begin planning our next Christmas holiday in Montreal the day after we get back from the last one; we start the day we leave, when we book for the following year. This year, we’ll be at Auberge Les Passants du Sans Soucy from December 19-27. It will be our longest trip ever, and the best. Today, I bought the airline tickets, and that takes care of the second major element of our planning.

More to come on this, but with 129 days to prepare, we have some time to think about it.

Anthony Leaves Veritas

Anthony Benda has posted to his blog about his decision to leave Cafe Sante Veritas, and apparently strike out on his own, with a new cafe to open in the near future in downtown Montreal.

I wrote about Veritas a few months ago. We went there practically the minute we got off the train in Montreal on our last holiday, hoping he would be working the machine, but he was on holiday. Nevertheless, we had great espresso then and on subsequent visits. Veritas is one of those cafes that looks just slick enough that you wonder if they really care about the coffee. The first sip confirms beyond the shadow of a doubt that they do.

I’m sure Veritas will retain its high standards – we’ll be back on our next trip in December to make sure. And we’ll be watching for news of the new cafe.

Espresso at Veritas

For about six months, we’ve been reading raves from various Chowhound contributors about Cafe Veritas, the three-group Synesso machine, the coffee from 49th Parallel Roasters, the prowess of Anthony, the cafe’s celebrated barista. So, about two hours after getting off the train, we stopped in for coffee. This close to the holidays, we never assume any business is going to be open with regular hours.

Veritas is located in Old Montreal, 480 St. Laurent, near the corner of Notre Dame Ouest. It’s a cool, modern interior… probably not a space where I’d curl up with a coffee for a few hours to work on the computer, but it’s smart, with a clean and utilitarian layout.

Chuck ordered a cappuccino; I, an espresso. I’ll say first of all that Anthony was away on holiday, but my espresso was the best I’ve had in a very long time. The 49th Parallel blend they use has bright, fruity high notes, but it’s also rich and deep, no bitterness, perfect crema. Chuck was impressed by his cappuccino. The owner was really cool about explaining the benefits of the Synesso machine to my former barista boyfriend, and chatting about the business in general.

The cafe was to be open the next day and then close for the holidays, so we got there in the morning for our second Veritas experience and it was brilliant again. With a fully manual machine like the Synesso, you quickly “taste” each barista and how he or she pulls the shot. So my espresso the next day had a deeper, darker texture with few high notes, but it was still good, and variation is a part of the experience of coffee.

Veritas was my best espresso in Montreal. There’s a lot of bad coffee in Montreal, as is the case everywhere, but the city also has some really good coffee - Caffe in Gamba and Caffe Art Java, to name two. The arrival of Veritas, in June of 2007, raises the bar even higher.